as so often noted all porcini aren’t equal. caps must be closed and tight on the stem. an individual mushroom must have a certain weight, one proportionate to its seize. it should feel heavy, dense. like a light lemon brings not much juice, so a gossamer mushroom will prove spongy, not worth the butter it is cooked in.
hence several dense porcini, one mushroom per person. sliced stem wise, about five millimeter (a third of an inch) thick, then slowly roasted in hazelnut butter until the edges show a very light tan. serve mounded with an egg yolk set off center. best with toasted pugliese bread.
i would like to mention a subject recently covered in mark bittman’s ny times column ostensibly titled ‘the last tuna?’
(http://bitten.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/11/13/the-last-tuna/) as well as my ostensive reply, as to my last blog on ‘noodle-brains’ on the notion of ‘tartare’.
the main subject relates to the over-fishing of blue fin tuna, which amongst many other food fish is being depleted at record numbers.
here is what i had to say:
'So much of this is simply politicking. Until reliable information about wild food fish is available, there is no point in any argument. Even reasonable research shows a multitude of varying results, as the handout from Monterey alone indicates. once a specific fish species becomes rare it is no longer profitable to pursue the catch. it may take years for some fish to return, but complete extinction is not likely. salmon might suit here as example.
taste aside, farmed fish is not really an answer either. who really knows what such fish feed on, or what conditions relate to their health, let alone ours.
in my opinion eating wild fish needs an individual’s moderation and strict governmental oversight. this could bring an endangered species back to sustainable quantities and hence add a healthy supply to our food chain.'