new foods


certain foods aren’t exactly ‘new’. most have been around for ever, used in virtually every ‘new’ cuisine and then some. what makes notions novel for the cook at home, as compared to the professional kitchen, are typically the various means and ingredients put to use in the process. at my house, in my kitchen, preparations are mostly done by hand, without machines, over a regular nine to five stove, in an oven which works a la dolly parton’s lyric: the oven door wants a stick to stay shut.
i do like to play with food. for color, for textures and of course for the various deflections of taste. ultimately to fill the belly, though not too much these days. gaining butter-fat weight yields to the gut, gravity does the rest, old belt notches moving farther and farther apart. slender youth being a thing of distant past.
i love beets. i roast them in some olive oil in a 300 oven and once cooled, are slipped of their skin, cut into bites and combined in some new guise to comfort their flavor or to juxtapose a beet’s texture. i have done grapefruit and beets, where fleshy citrus sections mingle with the root’s solid earthy essence and feel. then, yesterday, i thought of mating the two in a sauce, a straight forward mayonnaise, abundant in tarragon, meyer lemon and a darkly matured mustard.



the whole thing turned pink in an instant, much of the ruby beet’s pigment, but chewed refreshingly crisp and tasted all at once umami and sweet, pungent and sour. nicely done as stephanie has it. for me nice is one of those words better used on old ladies.