lunch at evoe's



getting there before noon - they are so strict about opening - but next door is the annex of powell's with cookery books galore. that old paperback of elizabeth david, 'italian food', slightly tattered, came in handy. i skipped the foreword by julia child. there are those fiendishly nice friends of that woman, but i don't care much for her french. elizabeth david now, she is my meat and potatoes, her italian food, done up in the fifties, turns out much up to date some fifty years later. her likes and those very dislikes are poignant. looking for true and regional italian food you do well keeping this treasure, as i do, bedside, to dream of la bella cucina. roused in the morning will have you cook approaching italian, if not as yet with 'il cucchiaio d'argento'. 
so, while i waited for the counter at evoe's, i read again and with some mischief, about catherine de medici, who, it is said, brought italian cooking to improve that of then france. the story is more complicated than that, it always is, but i revel with some delight in the notion of the italians coaching those french. ha!
evoe's opened and the fish had arrived. kevin has his way with fish, somewhat in a 'chinese' manner. crispy and moist, a pleasure to see, delightful to eat. here it is: