crisscross



many a ways of doing a quiche. from ridiculously fancy to low, straight on, herbs, once around the kitchen to the voluptuously six eggs and chanterelles. we have made quite a few, and yes, stephanie makes her very own. we do them mostly to have for breakfast, little lunches or those in-betweens, too early for dinner, late afternoon ravenings or the once in a while, fridge marauding, midnightly frenzies. the bakery across the river has buttery shells, kept in the freezer, for use at a whim. the whole thing, pre-bake to cooked, warm and ready to devour, that pie takes under an hour. fabulous these coolish, windy, leaf blown days, rainy portlandish nights. 



we do fire side dinners, lazy, no big deal, just feeds, max fifteen martha minutes to do, if that, like:
ready shrimp with mushrooms and fennel.
bolognese, done up some sunday, back when. warmed with fresh pasta, arugula and m√Ęche as salad.
freezer foods mostly, like that pasta fazul, though no cannelini, but bright green edamame.
yellow tomatoes, luscious in oil, tarragon, over squid ink tagliatelle.
wild rice and peas, grilled bavette. yes, yes, yes, i know, the rice takes an hour, so does the charcoal. but, hey, i can read or bother my love, or work on this blog while the stuff does its thing. rice ready, the steak roasts for may be ten and the peas, well, they melt into the rice cooling the heat, making the whole thing ready for chow.
then there is tonight’s porcini tortellini with a sauce from those pesto days, served with a biting pecorino and a scoop of salmon roe.

simplicius simplicissimus maximus

unlike my new friend from up east likes to can and finagle preserves, do jams and butters, i’m a complete idiot comes to canning. i freeze. but in the spirit of the nouvelle, i have requested liana krissoff’s: ‘canning for a new generation’. no, i am not the new generation, though still willing to learn, if by the fire. so, i guess, once the book gets here, i’ll be perusing preserves, strawberry jam and fermented beans, paprika pickled turnips and their such likes. the books hails from kitchen arts & letters, a terrific food and cookery book store on lex in manhattan. go get to their site: kitchenartsandletters.com. nach waxman owns the place, he’s been around since my time, encyclopedic he is, and then some. he’ll know what you’re talking about, when you look for a book on parsing pickles. and, though i’ve mentioned her blog before, if you like getting preserved, or pickled, look at her stuff at:
http://whatjuliaate.blogspot.com/
she’s terrific.