once around the lazy kitchen



last night's dinner: one of stephanie's favorite: cozze puttanesca. a puttana is a lady of the horizontal trade. she could cook that sauce while finagling a john and have it after the moil. not in my kitchen, my sauce takes time, leisurely made from italian canned tomatoes, much reduced and flavored with rich anchovies, roasted garlic, orange zest, pitted oil-cured moroccan olives, paprica as additional spice and to thicken the sauce. minced parsley, finely chopped onions, reduced to compact their flavor in olive oil and some anisette. the mussel steamed in sake, liquid strained and added late to the sauce adjusting its density. mortar crushed rosemary and fennel seed, to flavor the olive oil for croutons.

tonight is the lazy part: left overs, thickened with tomato paste, aside a frozen silver salmon gently poached, pepper corns, dill weed and a bay leaf.




the mild salmon and the dark sauce, a happy amalgam, on a slow night for a laggardish cook.