green




i can't forever imagine a puttanesca without a base of tomatoes, rendering amorous red, but now i will venture toward a virduous, though by no means virtuous green. the reason is a recipe in this weeks times by melissa clark on a saucy puttanesca for spring. indeed, it is the time for young garlic and the sauce wants plenty of that. 
i always wish, authors would mention the quality of an ingredient, like what kind of capers, of salt or in oil or a brine. same for the anchovies. how is a home cook to make a choice, when the variants are of such difference. as below, it turned out a blessing, stephanie devoured a half pound spaghetti with sauce left in the bowl for a spoon. 
you know by now of the puttanesca, slowly rendering spicy flavors toward a dense pungent constitution, while trade prospers, horizontal or otherwise. sauce for all seasons, and now a spring version, bursting forth most viraginously of anchovy, capers and picholine, young garlic and scallion, a certain thrust of a chili gordo, depending, spinach and basil.

1 pound farro spaghetti, al dente
olive oil to fry
a dozen anchovies in oil, drained
1/3 cup non pareil capers in vinegar, drained
1 cup picholine, pitted
a dozen fat new garlic cloves with greens, chopped
1/3 cup chopped scallions including greens
finely grated chili gordo (green) to taste
5 cu cups baby spinach leaves
1 cu basil leaves, torn

cook ingredients over heat until garlic is lightly browned, stir in the chili, reduce heat to a very slow simmer. search your whiles and desires. once fulfilled, toss in spinach and basil to wilt. top spaghetti with sauce and eat.