those who come up with the simplest yet most delicious recipes ought to be crowned royalty. lois freedman, now president of jean-georges management, is in my estimation one of those ready for knighting. her recipe for corn pudding, most delectable of all delectabilities, gives her that certain honor.
i read about her in the times, diners journal, the temporary vegetarian, only to question, what, no eggs, no sugar, no flower? but i set out to do the very thing, excepting i didn't own, shame on me, a cast iron pan. never mind, i hopped into the car, drove across to sellwood where antique stores certainly would sell me a 10 inch cast iron oldie for cheap. not so. them's antiques, for fifty bucks i could own a lesser one, but honey she said, what are you doing with it? corn pudding, i said and her immediate answer: go over to fred mayer's, dear, they'll sell you a new one for twelve bucks. back at the stove, my new cast-iron came already pre-seasoned, filled quickly with grated corn, milky, fresh corn, straight from the farm. the oven was on for three-fifty, twenty five minutes later the corn was golden brown, caramelized, sans sucre, ready to scrape from pan to bowl, blending in butter, some cayenne and a squeeze, not from my honey, but of lime and i sat down to the sweetest, most delectable surrender any corn cob might hope to tender.
and just to check, i looked up diana kennedy, the doyenne of mexican food and her version of corn pudding. amazed i was. from frozen corn, butter, eggs, milk, flour and cheese, driving the thing with baking powder, made this likely a pudding, but nothing near as lovely and, let me mention, healthy, as freedman's concoction.