steak tartare


it's been a while, since sometimes early in the year, and no, i didn't starve myself. other notions, artistic endeavors, came along, creativity being what it is, something had to give.

so now, coming around again to my food and its various discernments, today i'd like to suggest steak tartare. it is that time, somewhat between fall and a late summer, makes use of the chopping board in a still cool kitchen. the butcher suggested a kobe style bavette, and she knows her stuff, though there is no actual wagyu kobe beef to be had in america. this type of beef is from the tajima-ushi breed of wagyū cattle and sold not in the US, but within japan, though it can apparently be bought the long way around in australia (god knows why). whatever. i assuredly do not recommend ordinary ground beef from the corner store, where meat might hail from god knows where, even chicago.

this is how i concoct my steak à la tartare: i cut the beef into small bits, say about a quarter inch cubes and marinate these in a crisp red wine for an hour, or so. for a pound of beef i combine six anchovies, four teaspoons capers, the small kind, five teaspoons of my mustard (see above) and two egg yolks. mixing and mashing, this then goes into the fridge until the marinating beef has chilled. three good tablespoons total, combining finely chopped cipollini onions, italian parsley and sage to mix with tabasco, olive oil and worcester sauce. hard to tell exacting amounts, your tongue will be the best guide. 
ditching the marinade, i put it all together, the beef, the anchovy mix, the onion stuff. i use my hands, it feels great, blending the mess and tasting along the way. more tabasco? more worcester sauce? and last a good scatter of crunchy sea salt. the whole thing should be gently moist, and be heaped instantly onto a piece of sourdough boule, if in paris, from poilâne, in portland from ken's, elsewhere at least from your very own oven, onto a decent dark slice of sourdough bread.




a bardolino would be good, an old ale full of malt acceptable, me, i like a glass of laphroig, some water aside for the nose.